The new Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée collection, in yellow, rose and white gold, combines a variety of precious stones with a classic gold bead design, featuring rounded lines and radiant gold, to create a series of jewels with a vivid shape and a bright and magnificent look.
Five new rings have been added to the Perlée collection, extending the collection’s delightful style with gold beads that accentuate the dazzling decorative stones. The rounded lines of the Philippine ring, designed by the Maison in 1968, are reinterpreted with the boldness and splendor of the decorative stones and diamonds that were popular at the time, creating a new masterpiece that brings the Perlée collection to life with a bright and lively color.
The new Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée collection
The delicate, three-dimensional shape of the piece reflects the central colored stones, whose intense hues and large size highlight the meticulous care taken by the Maison in the selection of its materials. Deep onyx, malachite with elegant streaks of emerald green (the finished product is particularly precious due to the scarcity of the stones), lapis lazuli with its shimmering blue, turquoise with its azure blue and coral with its orange-red coloring, are combined with yellow gold to create a bright and radiant jewel. Two rows of intricately carved gold beads spiral along the ends of the stone, enclosing a row of round diamonds. The mirror polishing process further enhances the brilliance of the gemstone, revealing a touching atmosphere between light and shadow.
The Perlée collection also presents new bracelets and pendants, a harmonious dance of new materials. Inspired by the pieces launched in 2017, the bangles feature an arch of yellow gold set with diamonds on one end and a cabochon of lapis lazuli or coral on the other, forming a mutually complementary design on the open bracelet, with rows of gold beads pouring down to create a radiant light along the slender wrist. The pendant features a cabochon of lapis lazuli or coral, also embellished with rows of gold beads, elegantly outlining the rounded curve of the stone.
Rare lapis lazuli and coral are used for the first time in a jewelry style of its kind, and the finished product is rare and precious. The materials are carefully selected for their deep, even color, bringing to life the blue of lapis lazuli and the orange-red hue of coral. The surface of the stones is polished to give them a clear, lustrous glow. The two new stones, together with the precious materials of the collection – malachite, carnelian and turquoise – give the collection a richer and more magnificent look, with the dazzling colors of diamonds forming a warm concordance of light and shadow.
For the first time since its launch in 2008, the Perlée collection features colored gemstones in rings. Based on the Caroline rings and bracelets created by Van Cleef & Arpels in the late 1970s, these three new pieces combine the brilliance of classic round beads with the magnificence of rubies, sapphires and emeralds to inspire an aesthetic dialogue. The deep red rubies, carefully selected by the Maison’s gemmologists, play a subtle variation with rose gold, while the deep sapphires and bright emeralds soften the warm glow of yellow gold.
All three rings are asymmetrical in design, with contrasting light and shadow and composition, in keeping with the lively and vibrant style of the collection. Each ring is composed of five rows of gold beads. The beads, of varying sizes, are gently wrapped around the finger to form a ring that dazzles with a wide to narrow band, with diagonal gemstone links at each end. The stones are held in place by polished gold claws, a setting first used in the Perlée collection, which demonstrates the dexterity of the Maison’s craftsmen, especially when dealing with materials such as emeralds, which require careful handling. The stone setting is hollowed out to create a honeycomb-like structure, and the ring’s finely polished finish adds to the sparkle and brilliance of the ring.
Three new Perlée diamonds rings with the same aesthetic: the fire of round diamonds against the warmth of yellow gold, the transparency of white gold, and the warmth of rose gold. The structure of the rings is sharp, the lines are sleek, and the brilliance shines with every movement. The diamonds are selected according to the most exacting quality criteria (E or F color; IF to VVS clarity), in keeping with Van Cleef & Arpels’ tradition.
Following the launch of the pavé diamond Perlée diamonds ring in 2020, the Maison is now offering new earrings in yellow, white and rose gold. The beads surround 74 round diamonds set in a domed surface, echoing the design of the ring. Each bead is hand-polished to create a harmonious rounded effect, with light penetrating through the openworked setting to release the diamond’s inner light. The three-dimensional shape of the earrings reveals the dazzle of the stones and the brilliance of fine gold, making the eye linger.
From left to right: Twist ring (1965), Little Doe brooch (1956), Bagatelle bracelet (1951)
Since the 1920s, the Maison has been using the element of brilliant gold beads in its jewelry creations. Since 1948, gold beads have taken on an even richer look.
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